TURKEY - ISTANBUL - BLUE MOSQUE
The beautiful domes and six slender minarets of the Sultanahmet
Mosque (better known as the "Blue Mosque") dominate the skyline
of Istanbul. In the 17th century, Sultan Ahmet I wished to build an Islamic
place of worship to rival the Hagia Sophia, and the mosque named for
him is the impressive result. The two great architectural achievements
stand next to each other in Istanbul's main square, and it is up to visitors
to decide which is more impressive.
The Blue Mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and designed by architect
Mehmet Aga (Aga's unfortunate predecessor was fired - i.e., executed).
Construction on the mosque began in 1609 and took seven years. Sultan
Ahmet died only a year after the completion of his masterpiece, at the
age of 27. He is buried just outside the mosque with his wife and three
sons.
The mosque was to be built on the site of the palace of the Byzantine
emperors, facing the Hagia Sophia (at that time the most venerated mosque
in Istanbul) and the hippodrome, a site of great symbolic significance.
Large parts of the southern side of the mosque rest on the foundations,
the vaults and the under crofts of the Great Palace. Several palaces,
already built on the same spot, had to be bought (at considerable price)
and pulled down, especially the palace of Sokollu Mehmet Paşa, and
large parts of the Sphendone (curved tribune with U-shaped structure
of the hippodrome).
One of the most notable features of the Blue Mosque is visible from far
away: its six minarets. This is very unique, as most mosques have four,
two or just one minaret. According to one account, the Sultan directed
his architect to make gold (altin) minarets, which was misunderstood
as six (alti) minarets. Whatever the origins of the unique feature, the
six minarets caused quite a scandal, as the Haram Mosque in Mecca (the
holiest in the world) also had six minarets. In the end, the problem
was solved by adding a seventh minaret to Mecca's mosque.
The other striking feature of the exterior is the beautifully-arranged
cascade of domes that seem to spill down from the great central dome.
The arcades running beneath each dome add further visual rhythm. None
of the exterior is blue - the name "Blue Mosque" comes from
the blue tiles inside.
The main, west entrance is beautifully decorated. However, to preserve
the mosque's sanctity, non-worshippers are required to use the north
entrance, off the Hippodrome. Hanging from this gate are symbolic chains
that encourage everyone, even the sultan on horseback, to bow his or
her head upon entering.
The interior's high ceiling is lined with about 20,000 blue tiles that
give the mosque its popular name. Fine examples of 16th-century Iznik
design, the tiles feature flowers, trees and abstract patterns. The overall
effect is one of the most beautiful sights in Istanbul.
The decorations include verses from the Qur'an, many of them made by
Seyyid Kasim Gubari, regarded as the greatest calligrapher of his time.
The floors are covered with carpets, which are donated by faithful people
and are regularly replaced as they become worn out.
Until recently the muezzin or prayer-caller had to climb a narrow spiral
staircase five times a day to announce the call to prayer. Today a public
address system is used, and the call can be heard across the old part
of the city, echoed by other mosques in the vicinity. Large crowds of
both Turks and tourists gather at sunset in the park facing the mosque
to hear the call to evening prayers, as the sun sets and the mosque is
brilliantly illuminated by colored floodlights.
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